Live Updates from the Bolivia Protests
Update Fri 10:15 PM: Happy New Year Bolivia! Univision reported that at 10:15 PM, President Evo Morales announced the reinstatement of the petroleum subsidies. These will be signed into effect on Monday morning. The people's voice has been heard!
Update Fri 10:15 AM: Traffic has resumed normalcy. Cars flood streets again, which I hope means that buses will take us later to the town Coroico for New Years. The worst appears to be over, but I'm still curious to see the political fallout and future implications of the riots and the price hikes.
In 2005, when Carlos Mesa was President, Mesa proposed a 10% petroleum price rise. Evo Morales, then a powerful union leader, attacked Mesa, saying, "If he doesn't lift this mandate, Carlos Mesa will become Bolivia's biggest enemy." Morales continued, "If the president doesn't listen to the people, we will force an early election." Mesa caved into Evo's demands (article in Spanish).
Now, it's strange to watch Morales, the voice of the poor and indigenous make a 72% price rise in gasoline without similar opposition. New grassroots leadership hasn't yet emerged to counter mandates like this from the president's office. It also shows that with his previously strong convictions against such a decision, Evo's hands must be tied and the country must truly be struggling financially with unsustainable subsidies. It will be interesting to see the continued fallout from the riots and from the gasoline changes.
Photo Recap of the Day:
(With surprisingly good resolution from my cellphone camera)
Burnt car on the barricade line while military police confront protesters. |
Protesters organize while burning their own blockade further down the highway. |
Roadblock line as left unattended during lunch break. The charred remains of tires draw the El Alto-La Paz border. |
Military Riot Police storm in on their motorcycles. |
Tear Gas. Enough said. |
An SUV that tempted fate and ventured too close to the blockade. |
Military police arrive as the eight lane tollbooths burn. |
Update Thurs 10:44 PM: As the day progressed, the streets lightened up. Cars were no longer scarce by the time my brother arrived at four, although whenever a taxi passed, people still stopped them and launched rocks at the windows. Protesters continued to block the entrance to the airport to cab drivers. We found a taxi outside the airports boundaries who agreed to drive us through slow, windy back roads to La Paz. We finally made it.
When we reached the city, I called my girlfriend Vivi who works on the governor's legal team. She informed me that protesters had taken over the plaza in front of the presidential palace and began storming the government buildings. All workers vacated the premises.
By night time, we were able to hail cabs with much less effort than earlier in the day. Even though the protest seemed to be losing steam, it's still uncertain how Bolivian anger will carry over. Tomorrow we plan to take a bus ride to a mountain town on the edge of the Amazon to celebrate New Years. I hope we get there painlessly.
Update Thurs 1:29 PM: For my last trip to the blockade before my brother arrives, I watched in amazement as the rioters destroyed the highway tollbooths and then light them on fire. Riot police showed up as an organized motorcycle gang and shot three rounds of teargas into the crowd. When the mob dispersed, the military set up a police line, affronting the protesters. Literally ten feet from the action, I watched as an officer picked up a rock off the ground, threw it at the protesters, then yelled, "They're throwing rocks! Attack!" The police rushed the area occupied by the mob and people fled like scurrying mice. Instead of chasing after the protesters and escalating the violence (which appeared to be on the brink of erupting, instigated by the riot police looking for a fight), the military police shot another three rounds of teargas into the crowd. Instead of waiting by the front line for more skirmishes to transpire, I sought refuge again in the airport lobby.
Update Thurs 12:31 PM: I wandered back into the protests. They now practically stretch up to the airport's entrance, but thankfully, the violence seems to have calmed down...at least for lunch break. Looking out across the cities, tiny smoke stacks litter the skyline, seemingly rising from every other street corner. While the smoke calmly reaches towards the clouds, lunch hour allowed everyone to relax for the moment. At the smaller "militia" protests on the outskirts and side streets, tire fires act like bonfires as neighborhood groups sit to eat, chat, and drink beer (hopefully not a foreshadowing bad sign for later). One of the "militias" even organized a pick-up fútbol game (I might try to join in if my brother's flight gets further delayed). Closer to the center barricade, street vendors with push-carts feed the crowds.
Although quiet for now, the thundering dynamite and fireworks still shake the desolate streets and I have yet to see a single store open for business. As I returned back to the airport, a massive group marched towards the barricade, throwing rocks, yelling taunts, and denouncing the government. Lunch break is over.